Friday, September 19, 2008

North eastern Beaches of Brazil- Natal, Pipa and Frances

North eastern Beaches of Brazil- Natal, Pipa and Frances

Incredible, lucky me! The following beach towns would truly make up a great vacation!

These have to be some of the best beaches I have ever seen!!

The first stop after Canoe Quebrada was Natal.

Natal is quite a large city full of high rise condos and a large vibrant strip along the beach full of Posadas & restaurants that make up the nightly entertainment.
Across the main hwy there are more Posadas and night clubs. This area is a little far for me to walk as I still have a large limp due to the broken leg and the tight muscles from lack of use. the bikes are simply to large to be scooting around on as well we have the issue of drinking and driving those big beasts in steep, twisty crooked hills on cobblestone.
They also light the beach strip up at night to give the area a Miami feel to it, no real night life on the strip, pretty but not that exciting.
This area is much better during the day, the sidewalks are done quite nicely with colour stone designs, clean up crews are there daily, and of course this could not be Brazil with out the itsy bits’, tiny weenie bikini and banana hammocks.

After our stay in the big city we were off to Pipa

Pipa was not to disappoint, this is a great place to come and chill, party and or do the earth friendly visit and see the bay of dolphins, watch the turtles out in the ocean surf or even go to the turtle conservation national park.
Pipa is not just a stop on its own but there is another town that appears to be large, Tuibau do Sul. I think that maybe Pipa is the beach and Tuibau do Sul is the town.
Anyway Pipa is hip. Stone streets full of modern cars and dune buggies.
Lively at night full of well dressed tourist (international and local Brazilians alike) with the local artisans, shop workers and average joes looking on. Daytime brings a different feel. One of laid back days with an undertone of ensuring you look your best in your bathing suit (or should I say Thong da thong thong thong)
There are numerous beaches around this spot. The beach that Brent and I came across was down the main entrance to the beach and to the left. You need to pass over three spots where the rocks jut out from the mammoth rock walls. During the walk you will first pass vendors and a few beach bars, then off to a more secluded location. The second part where the rocks stick out and the waves are a little rough where you can see large turtles swimming and eating.-that is really exciting to see how large they are and how close they come. I must say quite elusive to photograph though, much easier to view and take it all in.
Third part of the beach tour was the dolphin bay. Out around a peninsula you enter into a bay where the waves coming in from all directions, white soft sand and a grand rock wall as a backdrop finish this secluded seen. However that is not all. After a few moments walking to the centre of the bay beach we noticed all the dolphins. At one point while standing looking out at these beauties one almost beaches itself to catch a fish; exceptional!! This beach was so secluded there was a total of twenty people on about 3kms of beach and just a few vendors walking though selling pastries, ice cream etc.. Well worth the journey. There are so many beaches around this hip area that you could easily spend two weeks exploring them.
Finally in this area there is great boating, snorkelling, scuba and they also have turtle conservation park about 3 km square that costs $3.50 pp to enter and takes a few hours to walk through.
You tube video:YouTube - Brasil - Natal - Pipa


Praia Frances (frenchmans beach)
High priced beach town just south of Maceio.
Nice town but we wandered around for hours looking at all the Posadas in the scorching heat and the best price we could get was at a sex motel for $15 US but you could not check in before 7pm and you had to be out at 6 am (More to come on this subject in the next blog). The only other choice was a room for $30 US a night a little out of the budget at this time.
So we paid $1.25 and parked close to the beach but had to run cables through our stuff to prevent theft and Brent carried his top case with him.
The beach was absolutely packed with about 50,000 people, asses hanging out everywhere, short Speedos, vendors galore and garbage floating up out of the water from people discarding their cups and wrappers.
We talked with a bar keep and secured a table, chairs and an umbrella. Drank beer, Cuba Libras, ate freshly cooked corn on the cob and skewers of freshly grilled steak- yum all for $12.50 US. Coming close to the end of the day the surf was very high and taking over our portion of the beach (as the bar was closer to the water than others) so we decided we still had time to kill before we could check into the kinky motel.
Still hungry, off we went in search of a pizza joint we had seen on the way in. We secured a local drink (cacacha), a 600ml beer, vodka and mango juice drink, bottle water and a large calabrese pizza for $13 US- Can I hear a Hell yeah good deal.
With still more time to kill we decided to walk the beach. First thing we noticed is that the white powder sand actually squeaked under your feet as you walked. Second was the most incredible sunset over a small hill peppered with sand spots and green bushes topped off with tall swaying palm trees. The sun was adding hues of orange and red to the ever mellowing sky. Brent and I took time out to truly enjoy this marvellous moment, looking up at the beauty I found myself wondering if this could be a pinnacle turning point in our trip, one for the better and signs of good things to come- lets hope. As the sun went down the glory of the moon appeared adding a purple glow to the now dark blue sky. With a full moon low in the sky casting its warm glow across the ocean adding yet another magnificent site for viewing.
Finally we are off to our sex motel, yet one more surprise is in store for us. It is now dark and we are the only ones left parked in the field, as we start to get the bike ready to go I feel a tremendous burning bite on my foot and then more and more. Below us were ants that left a nasty sting. Brent rolled the bikes over to another area and we quickly brushed them off and put on our bike boots.
You tube video:
YouTube - Praia do Frances - AL - Brasil

Now we arrive at the sleaze inn motel- for more details see next blog :0

Canoa Quebrada Brazil

Canoa Quebrada Brazil
Really can you ask for much more out of a beach town?
You tube video: YouTube - Brazilian Beach - Canoa Quebrada e Camocim

What a pretty little town, as you drive into it one of the first things you notice are the dune buggies lined up along the towns main square like they are parked in a little boys car collection. The vendors come out to try and get dibs on showing you the different tour packages available for the area.

As we drove on through and straight down to the ocean you notice the small details in the side walk where they have placed a colourful moon and star every 10 feet or so and that the roadway is made out of rock. Side to side on the narrow streets there are colourfully decorated and tastefully laid out Pousadas (better known to us as small chic getaways).
Arriving at the splender of the Atlantic Ocean for the first time on our journey our eyes opened a little wider and we breathed a little deeper to take in the fresh ocean breeze.

We are filled with hope and anticipation that possibly we can start our journey they way we hoped it would be. things are looking good

We walked around to many different pousadas’ trying to secure the best deal as it is low season for them, although there were many great bargains with ocean views we settled on a camp site that was just off the ocean to keep expenses down as the broken leg and all the extra transportation costs have drove the budget sky high.
Great decision!
The spot is excellent, just far enough away from the main strip- better known as Broadway street that you do not hear the parties late into the night, extremely close to the beach so I do not have to walk far, we still have a great view of the ocean, a bathroom, laundry sinks, clothing lines and secure parking.

First we got our new home set up and beds made (okay the tent)then I made a new friend we called smoky, he reminds me of our cat Diesel, then it was time for the cast to come off. It has been 8 weeks since I broke the leg and I felt that I would have better stability by using the air cast I bought and my bike boot. While on the Amazon river trip we had cut some of the cast away so I could at least step without breaking my knee or cutting off my toes. Off came the cast –yuk what a site!!! 8 weeks no air, sweaty, old tanned skin and lots of leg hair- barf. Brent said it looked like I had taken a leg from the morgue and stuck it on my leg. :0 But I am now free; the first steps were like a child walking for the first time, slow and shaky with fresh new baby skin (after the shave, soap, skin sander and some cream).

Once again freedom has been given back to me, I can shower with two legs, not have to elevate my leg so water does not run into my cast, wrap up the cast to try and waterproof it, or in the early days have Brent help me in and out of some of the crazy showers, and the ultimate pleasure take a swim as the days are long and hot.

Next after the cast has been removed we venture down to the ocean, with much assistance from Brent I inch into the ocean and float around-oo ya.

Laying on the beach it a great way to spend a few days and slowly get the leg muscles working again.

This little town has a great strip of beach bars and interesting vendors that walk up and down the beach.
Broadway is an excellent main street with numerous bars and restaurants everyone with a different style and atmosphere in it. Cool
Later in the evening the artisans set up shop in the centre of the street and traffic comes to a halt.
Als there is a grat strip of beach bars along the beach. We hung out at the Freedom Bar for the afternoon- Ya man.
You tube video:
YouTube - freedom canoa quebrada
If that is not enough for you to do on a vacation you can take a dune buggie ride over the dunes, wind surf, surf, paraglide, visit nearby points of interest and other beaches, sail, sand surfing, view the tri-colored dunes in the town next door, or maybe walk the approximate 20kms of beach. Ya baby!

What an excellent place. From what we can gather you can have a little slice of heaven hear for around $50,000 US

I know for us this is place we would come back to!

Amazon River for 5 days

Manaus to Belem via ferry: riding the Amazon to the east coast of Brazil.
Manaus population 1.6 million people. Belem population 1.3 million people.

This is a major shipping route for the Amazon and there are many stops along the way, which in part makes this a long journey.

We arrived in Manaus around 10:00am to ensure we had plenty of time to find the correct ferry plus Brent was determined to try and find a ship that left that night.

Brent did a fabulous job driving into the city and straight to the shipping docs with no real map and the GPS is never any help in a major centre as it is a general world map (not one specific to Brazil). Although one thing we had on our side was common sense. We did know that the shipping docs had to be on the Amazon River which should basically be straight a head of where we entered the city and according to the foot prints book it was part of or very close to the city centre.

One good thing about Brazil is for the most part the next city is marked along the highway, the city centre, and the airports are all well marked. Mind you nothing else, such as street names within the city, highway numbers or highway names and forget local addresses. good luck chuck

Anyway I had only been riding for two days on the bike (still with my cast on) so we parked a street over from the docks and Brent went out to find out more info on the boat.
There are signs up that state the classes of boats (the best boat is the Amazon Star). After talking with a few locals, that is if you can call it talking when you know maybe 5 words of Portuguese, Brent strikes up a deal where as we would board the boat that day, it was a drive on boat for the bikes, free meals for the journey and we would have a air conditioned cabin instead of a open hammock (the cabin was recommended by everyone that we came across) for 1,110 Real, or $654.00 US or $130.50 a day and that included transportation of the bikes.

So away we went in an attempt to get on the boat early. The guy who Brent did the deal with sees us and then a friend of his comes out and starts to direct us through a slightly hairy ride and a maze of trucks that are cueing up so the can get on to the shipping dock and load their cargo. We make it to the first check point with the police, he asks for the bike documentation and passports then tries to tell us something else (all that I got out of his conversation was the number 4 and there is another area that we had to stop).Away we go and sure enough we are stopped by a second guy dressed the exact same as the first guy less than 50 feet away where he asks for the same info when all that is complete he says something else and we explain we do not understand, he motions with his fingers for money. Brent thinks he is asking for a bribe and tells the guy no, he the motions for us to take a hike and go back to where we started. We then attempt to drive onto the docs and he stops us eventually 3 other guys come out a a building and one was able to communicate with me that there is a $40 Real or $23 US doc fee for the two of us. It all makes sense we pay and then the guy who was directing us through the maze of vehicles is waiting for us as we enter the main docs and motions us over to our boat.

Now things get a little interesting.
Upon our arrival there are 5 men standing around and there are no loading ramps for the bikes. Brent explains to our new guide that his coworker the guy who sold us the tickets was told and reassured us there was drive on. Simply the answer is no. We take the entire luggage off the bikes while the men place a broken pallet from the dock which is higher by about 2.5 feet than the boat.
The first bike is taken by the guy who has shown us the way through, Brent and two other guys. This was quite the sight as the bike is much heavier and taller than they are used to so coming down the board Brent’s bike does not quite clear and hits the top of his mirror plus the guy who had the handle bars smashes his face into the boat as he tries to squeeze the brakes to prevent it from getting out of control. Brent hurries down and takes over from inside the boat. Second time is a charm and my bike goes down much better. Once on the ship they explain that they would like to lower the bikes into the ships holding cargo area about 20 feet down via ropes. We tell them no we would like to tie them in place on the main cargo deck. Eventually after going back and forth Brent says well I guess you will do what you want anyway. They assist with getting the luggage up two decks t our cabin. While I am inside they corner Brent and want money for helping. After a banter occurs Brent gives one on the boat workers $20 Reals and tells the other guy (who was being over pushy) to go back to his co worker friend and collect as the trip was to be a roll on/roll off as sold and who knows what is awaiting us in Belem; pissed off he leaves (he was an asshole) and the boat worker shakes Brent’s hand.

We arrange our tight little cabin, change and order up a few beers. We had read the boat leaves at 6 pm so we try and get some food on the main dock, all that is there is deep fried pastries so that will have to do as we were not allowed to leave the docks once we entered. We sat for hours watching the trucks pull up and unload their cargo amazed at how much weight was being placed on the boat. 6pm comes and goes we try and ask the bartender when the ship is leaving she says 2 hours, yeah no. Then we ask again we some how get 11pm, ya no. We go to sleep with the door open as it is so hot and muggy. Morning comes and they are still loading cargo by 2 pm people start to arrive on the ship and set up their hammocks, so it appears that we are finally leaving. 3pm we finally set sail, but false alarm, we go 100 yards and dock again to load more people and to allow the vendors on board were we sit until 6 pm. At this point we have been aboard to 28hrs, so much for leaving that night.

Once we were off it was great. The breeze kept the bugs to a minimum and the heat to a bearable point (although we did have AC in the cabin) Amazon is very wide about 2 km but by the second last day it narrows to 30 feet wide, just a little tight.

A few of the major high lights were:
ü Sunsets were amazing
At Santarem the yellow Amazon waters swirls along side the green blue Tapajos- the meeting of the waters.
ü There is an area deep in the Amazon where there are a thousand islands, there are passageways through this maze of inlets known as the Narrows and is the nicest part of the journey.
Also in this area all the natives come out in their dugout canoes looking for people to through items overboard to them. People will tie items such as clothing, dish rags, bubble gum, candy etc.. In a plastic bag and then throw it overboard at one of the boats. This can be quite heartbreaking as for the most part there are small children out in these canoes.

Our stops along the way from Manaus to Belem included:
1. Obidos
2. Oriximina
3. Santarem (for 18hrs)
4. Prainha
5. Almeirim
6. Breves
7. Barcarena

Arrival in Belem, good timing it was about 12:00 noon and we could roll the bikes right off the boat-yahoo. We packed up in record time and drove over 1600km in 2.5 days.

5 days down the Amazon river –how many people can say they did that!