Vina del Mar, Thermas de Socos, Pan de Azucar, North to San Pedro de Atacama then off to Putre via Arica on the way to Bolivia

Vina del Mar, Thermas de Socos, Pan de Azucar, North to San Pedro de Atacama then off to Putre via Arica on the way to Bolivia

After returning from Rapa Nui aka Easter Island we landed in Santiago were we needed to find a Canon dealer to get a new charger for our camera, $78 US ouch. We made it quick in and out as the weather was not great plus we were very tired from spending the night in the airport and still had other affairs to take care of.

Unfortunately we had to deal with a little business while in the city. You see, during our stay at Easter Island we had been out late one night taking pictures and Brent decided to walk back to the camp about 100 feet away, I thought he had the camera bag and he thought I had it. Needless to say it was left there and we lost the soft camera case for the canon, uploading cables, charger, 2 gig card, water proof bag and now for the worst of it, $1,900 US travellers check and $100 Us dollars.
While on the island we stopped the traveller’s checks but we still needed to contact AMEX in Vina del Mar and find a location to get the money back. Good news all worked out and we recovered the $1,900 US. The rest was worth about 300$.

So we headed up north towards Vina del Mar a great city but the real highlight was all the small beach towns just north of Vina del Mar. While in Vina del Mar we stayed in a a great hotel (Hotel Vancouver Vina- and yes the owner lived on the Canadian coast. Easy to find and good location) around 47 US a night, a little steep for us but included secured parking, good room, hot showers, wi-fi, breakfast in your room or in the outdoor patio. We saved a little money by buying food in the supermarket and eating in our room.
While driving up the coast along the beach towns you see many people out jogging, high end cars, excellent outdoor cafes and clubs, lots of great condos on the oceanfront and perfect views, here I got to see a pelican up close for the first time – Cool.

Once again we did not spend much time after recovering the funds and pushed on towards Termas de Socos
35 kms south of Ovalle you will find a little oasis where we camped at Termas de Socos for $13 a night http://www.terasococ.cl/ plus they have a great hotel with many cottages or another area that has a full campground complete with electricity at each site, hot showers and swimming pools. A few things to do would included going up to the hotel and have a hot thermal water bath, massage, steam or simply something great to eat. You can also hike the cactus filled area. Here we met Roger a great guy who has done a lot of travelling himself, he is running the place and offered us a free pisco sour (margarita) while we spoke. Our neighbours for a night were Pius and Stefan two Swiss guys traveling on bicycle for 17 months.(and you thought we were nuts.)
Close by you will find all the major observatories of Chile. La Silla http://www.is.eso.org/ , El Tololo http://www.ctio.noao.edu/ they possess some of the largest telescopes in the southern hemisphere (4 meters in diameter), and Las Campanas http://www.lco.cl/ .

Pan de Azucar
Pan de Azucar is a national park, very spectacular views as you drive by volcanic jutted rock, lined with white sand beaches and deep blue ocean. To top off the views you have great high rock mountains with a multitude of color running through them.
Beautiful spot but you can camp for free along the way. The park ranger was not around so we paid nothing there then went to the camp site. COLD water, no electricity, no way of buying any food, water, gas or beer. So what did we pay $11.50 for? Ps. Make sure you fill up with gas in Chanaral (just before the entrance on the south end of Parque National Pan de Azucar)

But after meeting a good couple from Germany on a KTM, and eating a exceptional spaghetti dinner and drinking a superb bottle of white wine ( See camping can include gourmet meals, especially when camping with me.) we pushed on with hopes of making it to San Pedro de Atacama.
Luck was not on our side. Halfway along about 200km in the middle of nothing and I mean nothing but sand we came across a large hand sticking out of the ground.
As we left the big welcoming hand in the dessert I discovered I had a flat, and flat it was. Once Brent repaired the tire we found ourselves looking for accommodations on highway 25 just off of the Pan American highway.

Yahoo here Brent located free camping behind the only gas station/restaurant for almost 300 kms. It was terribly windy and dry but it also had the best views of the night sky and some of the most multi colour sunsets I have been privileged enough to see.
During this night stay we were also greeted by the only occupant in the area Maria, Victor and Mathew. Maria is a German girl (blond hair blue eyes) who came to work nearby and fell in love with a Chilean man. They now have an adorable young boy who was born right in their house.

Next on the agenda is San Pedro de Atacama.

San Pedro de Atacama is the most arid desert in the world. If you are travelling by car make sure you fill up in Calama as there is nothing until San Pedro de Atacama. The town square is the main attraction with many enormous pepper or molle trees to which you can cool off under during the hot midday desert sun. This is also the location of a pretty church and it was declared a national monument in 1951.
Downtown has still preserved the structure and construction of the Spanish colonial influences, with quaint interior yards, roofs made of clay & hay. To continue to preserve the original look and feel the streets are still dirt but they have been treated with a salt derivative to help keep the dust down. Today the town is definitely a tourist town full of more tourists than locals. The streets are lined with numerous tour operators, hostels in all price ranges and styles, and restaurants with excellent Spanish décor style and influence.

Here we met some great people from Canada, Lisa and Peter:

We camped during our stay:
There are a few main attractions people come to see.

Also there are many photo opportunties as well:

Valley of the Death
It is located about 2 km west of San Pedro de Atacama. The salt mountain range has been shaped throughout time by wind and rain. Its geological origin comes from an emerged lake, where the old horizontal layers of sediment and rock, dating back to 23 million years. As the earths crust lifted creating the Andes Mountain range leaving some of the layers vertical.
Valle de Luna
Located 19 km from San Pedro de Atacama, was declared a Sanctuary of Nature. The absence of animal and vegetable life as well as the lack of humidity, make this the most inhospitable corner on Earth.
Geysers Del Tatio
Located 99 kms from San Pedro de Atacama and 4,320 meters above sea level. It is necessary to arrive prior to sunrise to see the geysers flow. There are 40 geysers, 60 springs, and 70 fumarolas that extend over 3 sq km. It is dreadfully cold so dress for the weather and if you want to drive it the road is very rough and hard plus in the dark it is almost impossible to navigate. Entrance fee is around $5 US.

Thermal Pools (Termas de Puritama)
On the way back from the Geysers there are thermal pools your can bathe in. Entrance fee is $8 US pp.

Toconao and Valle de Jere
Approximately 37 km south of San Pedro de Atacama and dates back around 3000 years. East of the town there is a beautiful green gorge called Quebrada de Jere. Entrence fee is $2 US pp.
Luguna Chaxa
Further south from Toconao is the vast 300,000-ha salt lake (the third largest expanse of salt flats in the world) and is home to many Flamingos. Entrance fee is $8 US pp. Make sure you bring at least a 300mm lens for your camera, sun screen, water and possibly a hat. The desert sun is very hot.
San Pedro de Atacama Celestial Explorations
With more than 330 clear nights and one of the clearest skies on the planet, the Atacama desert is a haven for astronomers. Located just outside San Pedro de Atacama is one of the largest private public observatories in Chile with the largest telescope of 60 cms and soon to be 90 cms by summer 2009. This observatory is run by a French gentleman who also does tours in English and Spanish. He is very informative, funny, and knowledgeable.

There are two other things you can do that we never did is visit Lagunas Miscanti and Meniques and hike the Volcano Lascar last erupted in April 2006.


San Pedro de Atacama to the Bolivian border via Arica.

What can I say, it is nothing but sand until you get to Cuya and then the scenery starts to change. Just before Putre the views are incredible as you start to climb the mountains. Many beautiful spots yet there are no roadside turnouts and it is very dangerous to stop so we have very few photos of this area.
We decided to stop in Putre for the night as it was getting late and you never know how long a border crossing could take.
Putre is in a amazing setting and worth the time to stop, not to mention great hiking.
It was such a treat to stop as we have been camping since Buenos Aries, so to get a place with hot running water, nice comfy bed and basic internet, breakfast included but no heat in room- it was like heaven. Hostel Cali was a little more than we like to spend on a hostel but the $28.00 spent seemed worth it at the time!